Butcher Holler
Down a one lane country road just outside of the tiny town of Van Lear Kentucky lies a place that seems completely untouched by the last 60 years of technological advancement. Were it not for the frequent signs steering you towards the area’s main attraction, you could easily mistake it as just another one of the abandoned coal mining towns that are common to the region. To walk the hills of Butcher Holler however, is to set foot on the hallowed ground of country music royalty. In her most famous song Loretta Lynn proudly proclaimed “Well, I was borned a coal miner's daughter. In a cabin, on a hill in Butcher Holler”.
Van Lear itself is a very small town, but by the time you’ve traveled the 2 miles to reach “Webb’s Store” you’ll have a new appreciation for just how isolated some of these rural communities can be. Webb’s is owned and operated by Loretta’s family (Webb being her maiden name). The store does sell the basic staples you would expect at most rural grocery stores like flour, sugar, milk, etc, but it primarily serves as a gift-shop of sorts for the Butcher Holler experience. Here you can talk to some of Loretta’s nieces and nephews, and pick up a souvenir t-shirt or coffee cup to commemorate your trip.
After taking in the delightfully frozen-in-time store, you can proceed down the road and officially enter Butcher Holler. Shortly after taking the fork in the road to enter the Holler, you will drive by on your right the site of the former coal mine where Loretta’s father made his living. The mine entrance is still clearly visible from the road, and can be reached with only a short walk. The entrance is sealed up with metal bars welded into place, but you can get a good view of the first 20 feet or so of the mine, after which the roof has noticably caved in. If you want to see the full view though, be sure and bring a flashlight.
Just a little ways further down the road you finally come to Loretta Lynn’s original home place. The driveway for the home was easily navigable in our low-profile car, but the parking was extremely limited. It can fit maybe 4-5 cars at most unless you're willing to park in a muddy little field.
Upon our arrival we were greeted on the front porch by Loretta’s niece, who now conducts the tours following the recent passing of her father. She was warm, friendly, and the very definition of southern hospitality. She seemed to have no issues with us walking around the property taking pictures for free, but was quick to offer a tour of the house for only $5 per head.
Entering the house you’re immediately aware of just how small the place is. The largest rooms are maybe 10x10 feet, and the ceiling is maybe 7 feet tall. Each room is packed with Loretta Lynn memorabilia, but the most impressive thing to me was that each room is fully furnished in original family furniture. Loretta’s parents bedroom still has their original bed, and the family radio that was originally battery powered before being upgraded to wired electricity when the Holler finally got power. The kitchen features the family’s original dining table (ornately carved, and missing a few table leaves which were transformed into the fireplace mantel). One can also see the family’s washing machine which began life as a gasoline-powered unit, before being converted to electric. Thankfully our amazing tour guide was just as knowledgeable about the family’s history as she was about Loretta’s musical accomplishments.
For me, this was honestly the most amazing part of the visit. I’m not a huge fan of Loretta’s music, but have seen her biopic enough that it was “cool” to see the real-life places from the movie. But the real value of the Lynn homeplace is that it is a remarkably well preserved museum to a time and place that simply doesn’t exist anymore. If you took away all of the pictures/posters/albums specific to the family’s most famous daughter, you would fully expect Loretta’s father to walk through the front door after his long shift at the local coal mine. It’s easy to see and understand the struggles and realities of a large family trying to tame a harsh land with almost no resources.
If you’re a fan of old school country music, Butcher Holler is obviously as much of a destination as Graceland is for Elvis fans. If you’re a student of history, or even the least bit interested in catching a glimpse of life in a different time and place, then the Lynn homeplace should be just as high on your list.
Want to Experience this Adventure for Yourself?
Webb's Store: 1917 Millers Creek Rd, Van Lear, KY 41265
Loretta Lynn Homeplace: 37.786126861958145, -82.70452504063128
